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Namhae Korea’s Hidden Gem
By Alison Rock
Located about 400 kilometers south of Seoul and across the longest suspension bridge in Korea, you will find Namhae Island. Located in Gyeongsangnam-do Province, Namhae is the fifth largest island in Korea. It is well known by locals for its rustic, countryside charms, but as a tourist, I would tout it as a healing escape from busy city life.
Jukbangnyeom fishing weirs in Namhae.
Famous for its fresh seafood and traditional fishing methods, my son and I started our trip off at the Jijokhang Fishing Village. The traditional method of fishing is called Jukbangnyeom. This method of fishing uses bamboo weirs that date back over 500 years. Bamboo weirs are giant fish traps where the “myeolchi”, called anchovies in English, swim in the V-shaped structure at high tide and can’t escape during low tide. This allows fishermen or clever birds to jump in and scoop them up. The anchovies in this area are said to swim against strong currents so they are firm and have a better taste. The anchovies range in size from 1/2 inch to 4 inches long. Anchovies are one of the best foods to eat because they are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which promote brain and heart health. In addition, they are an excellent source of calcium, iron, and zinc.
Heron fishing for anchovies.
We were fortunate the weekend we went. The annual Myeolchi (Anchovy) Festival was happening in the picturesque southern port of Mijo. Like many Korean festivals, it did not disappoint. There were two stages with live performers. We saw some regional talent and several of the biggest stars in Korean Trot. There was so much to do at this festival. Both kids and adults were participating in traditional fishing techniques where fish get caught with bare hands. There were several booths where children could do crafts. They were also handing out all sorts of free samples. We got to try the new Chilsung Blue Cider, Yuja Pepero Sticks, dried anchovies, dips, sauces, and so much more. Now, a Korean festival is not complete without food so our mouths watered at the smell of BBQ fish, yuja ice cream, and dalgona.
From here we headed to the Sinheung Haebari Village where we shifted our energy to the healing power of Cypress trees. Cypress wood is said to have calming and soothing energy. Also, the trees are fragrant and produce lovely essential oils. You can walk through this village enjoying the view of countryside crops and a plethora of fruit trees, my favorite being the Yuja (Citrus junos). When you reach the top of the hill, you come across Namhae Topia Land. Here you will find topiaries in every shape and size along with a relaxing Cypress grove equipped with lounge chairs and rest areas where you can relax and take in the views.
German Village Main Square
That made for a very full day so we stayed at a local hotel with a beautiful view of the sea. After a relaxing night's sleep, we started day two with a lovely traditional breakfast in Treasure Island and then drove to Namhae German village. This area is an ethnic enclave populated by both German expats and Koreans who worked as nurses and miners in Germany during the 60’s and 70’s. It’s a quaint European-style village where the houses are primarily white with the iconic sloped red roofs of Germany. When visiting this village, you would not know that you’re in Korea. It’s filled with cafes, souvenir shops, and restaurants. I enjoyed an authentic freshly grilled brat and lager. The town is open to tourists all year long, but they hold several festivals throughout the year. So if you’re looking to celebrate Octoberfest this fall, Namhae is the place to do it. The festivities will be a four-day event this year from October 2nd to 5th.
Driving around the island is beautiful, the landscape is overcome with terraced fields, a stunning indigo-blue sea, and long sandy coastlines. Most importantly, no trip would be complete without a visit to the Namhae Traditional Market. Here you can purchase some of the best live seafood in Korea along with fresh and dried anchovies, special gift boxes of anchovies, an amazing assortment of the most flavorful seaweed available for Kimchi, and side dishes as well as all the fruit and veggies your heart desires. This is a great place to stop for a meal as there are many restaurants to choose from.
We ate like kings during this trip to Namhae. We feasted on a nice Bibimbap made with locally grown vegetables, Ssuk-guk commonly known as anchovy, and mugwort soup, barbequed fish, Sundubu Jjigae (Korean Spicy Soft Tofu Stew) with fresh shrimp and clams, Pajeon- Korean Spring Onion Pancake, acorn jelly, Kkomak-muchim (Seasoned Cockles), and so much more. Namhae is a seafood lover’s heaven.
Korean Joseon Navy "Turtle Ship"
Our final stop on this trip was to the Namhae Pavilion and Namhae Bridge. This serves as the symbolic gateway to the Namhae region. Here we were able to take in the sights of the picturesque Namhae Sea and the quintessential and very Instagramable Namhae Bridge.
As we were enjoying the view of the port below, a very unique ship caught our eye which led to another adventure. Docked in the port is the Geobukseon, “Turtle Ship”, of the great admiral Yi Sun Shin. This warship was built in Korea during the Jeosan dynasty in approximately 1592 and was used during the Japanese invasions of Korea. It is designed both aesthetically and cleverly. It has a dragon-shaped head at the bow that can launch cannon fire or flames and it has a ferocious appearance that is meant to be used as psychological warfare. Inside the ship, there are eleven cannons on each side as opposed to enemy ships that at the time typically only carried 3 cannons. The sides of the turtle ship were speckled with smaller port holes from which arrows could be fired. Since adversary ships were typically taller, the roof was covered with spikes to prevent enemies from jumping on and attacking. This ship does not have a motor. It is steered and powered by 40 men with oars under normal conditions and 100 men in rough seas. The story is told that only three ships like this defeated over four hundred enemy ships.
We spent two fun-filled fully packed days in Namhae and didn’t even scratch the surface of all the fun things that you can do there. The next trip will be enjoying some clam digging, visiting the Sangju Silver Sand Beach, watching the sunrise at the Boriam Temple over Geumsan Mountain, maybe enjoying some night fishing at either Namuseom or Dolseom Island, and visiting the Seolli Skywalk with glass-bottom swing. I hope that you will put Namhae on your travel list while you are in Korea and enjoy all the island has to offer.
About the Author
Born in California Alison Rock is a trained culinarian, actor in Korea, K-influencer, painter and most importantly a wife and mom to two teenage boys. She enjoys travel and has resided in Korea for ten years.
Grilled fish at the Anchovy Festival.
Dried anchovy.
Dried anchovies for sale.
Namhae Topia Land
Cypress Trees
German Village Octoberfest Truck
Ice cream in German Village
Namhae Bridge