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By Jetta Allen
An hour and a half south of Pyeongtaek, or two hours west of Daegu, is the city of Nonsan. Filled with endless beauty from nature, cultural history, and agricultural development, it’s no surprise that Nonsan is on everyone’s list of must-visit places! The picturesque rolling hills, small lakes, tall pine trees, and the many farms make the city life slowly fade from view. You can relax, smell the fresh air, slip your shoes off, and walk through the lushest grass.
One can’t help but wonder if Nonsan’s culture of Confucianism is part of what makes it a place of respite. Confucianism is a belief system brought to Korea by the Chinese. This belief system isn’t just a personal system, it is a belief system that has helped shape Korean history, government, society, justice, education and academics, and culture across the peninsula. Today the practices and beliefs of Confucianism are feared to be on a decline and a cultural awakening is happening across the peninsula with government-funded programs to support history, culture, and a variety of beliefs and religions.
Reading of Confucian poetry, Peach Tree Soft and Tender.
The Korea Confucian Culture Center in Nonsan is dedicated to revitalizing Confucianism in South Korea. The revitalization is possible by intentional programming sponsored by the government of Nonsan. Together, United States military families and other Korean families experience culture with a whole day of activities and learning. The center is full of walkways, hanoks, traditional buildings, and a main complex building that hosts conference and auditorium rooms, libraries, exhibitions, a cafe, and a craft room. In the craft room, we learned about harmony and balance through Confucian art. Our family painted a pomegranate painting with butterflies, each component, deliberately placed and sized, in balance with the other.
The speakers discussed that through Confucianism and balance, inner peace and happiness can be found, and with inner peace, a community and society can be prosperous.
Many activities took place across the grounds in a restored pavilion called “Jeongsulu”. This was the Jonghakdang Family School classroom originally built in the mid-1600s in Nonsan. The Jonghakdang Family School was based on Confucianism, academics, and rules with a strict emphasis on the education necessary to pass the state exam that was required for those to hold government roles during the Joseon dynasty. The school was established by the Papyeong Yun clan (sometimes pronounced Yoon). Here members of the clan, as well as other families around the region of Nonsan, learned together. During the Joseon dynasty, the clan started to become an influential family, holding notable government and academic positions. One has to note that the rigorous curriculum and consistent rules were the main contributors to the clan’s rise to influence. Today an influential member of this clan includes the current President of South Korea, Yoon Seok-youl, the 35th generation of the Papyeong Yun clan.
An inside look at Jeongsulu, the classroom of Jonghakdang in Nonsan. The importance of academics and an appropriate education are recognized in Confucianism.
Joshua A. playing the haegeum.
Today, Jeongsulu stands as an open-air classroom overlooking the Korea Confucian Culture Centure and the hills of Nonsan. Here we learned Confucian songs that are more like poetry and how to play the haegeum. Our son enjoyed the sound of the haegeum being played and accepted the challenge to attempt to play the instrument. The haegeum is a complex handmade string instrument. They are made from hardwoods such as mulberry, quince, and even bamboo. When playing, the pitch changes with the position of your hand grasping the “ipjuk” (rod-like neck part). Then notes are played with a bow made of horsehair across the ipjuk, in a motion similar to the cello. Musicians must do these two movements together in unison to make pleasant music. One can hear the notes wane in and out as an experienced player works the ipjuk, slowly grasping and releasing. It was an experience that we will not soon forget!
In another hall, we practiced calligraphy with traditional paint brushes, an ink stone, and an ink stick. After practicing our calligraphy, we were given fans to create individual messages. As a group, we had many laughs as we created art together and as children explored the concepts of calligraphy. We had a few more laughs when the pitch-black ink seemed to get everywhere!
The Farmer’s Band playing in front of Jeongsulu in Nonsan.
Lastly, the group was led to the gardens on the grounds and given time to explore freely before heading back to the bus. My shoes came off as I purposefully and quietly walked around the grounds appreciating the beauty of nature. Other families were enjoying their children running and playing in the gardens. All of a sudden we heard music approaching!
Joshua A. playing the jing with a member of the band.
The farmer’s folk band could be heard hundreds of feet away walking up the trail. We looked on in amazement as the various instruments seemed to be played perfectly by the men and women. As the band began up the hill we saw a group of four men and two women playing four traditional instruments. The sounds of the janggu (an hourglass leather drum), the pungmul-buk drum, and the two “jings” (gongs) could be heard hundreds of feet away. As they came closer, you could see the expressions on the musicians' faces were full of emotions; happiness, passion, and enthusiasm. We all became enamored with each beat. Our expressions were met with laughter from the tour guides as we were given traditional hand drums called “youngchang sogo” to play with the band. My son and I joined the circle and played our hearts out matching the beat and steps of the others in the band. There was something familiar about the feelings of the drums being played. It reminded me of the First Nation powwows and why many Indigenous communities believe drum circles and dancing to be healing. As I let my cares go, a sense of peace swelled inside me, so much so it nearly brought me to tears. The leader of the band taught my son to play the jing and together, with no words shared, we played, we danced, and we laughed.
In the countryside of Nonsan, music became a universal language.
Our military lives often leave us stressed, worried about the future, and disconnected from our family and culture. This doesn’t mean we can’t embrace one another and join in with others to experience these special moments together! I implore all those stationed in Korea to get out and explore. Go anywhere, but get off your installation. This country is steeped in culture, but you won’t know if you don’t experience it. You can’t experience it fully by reading it in a book or watching it on a screen, you have to go out and live in it! People in Korea are ready to welcome you with open arms and share a smile, a moment, or a meal with you. Start experiencing Korea today.
Group photo of the all the families the Nonsan government sponsored for the event.
Put Nonsan on your Korean experience list. Go in summer for adventures, fall for the colors of the leaves turning, winter for the snowy hills, or visit in spring for strawberries and flower blossoms. It’s great at any time!
Resources
Haegeum at a Glance https://www.igbf.kr/DataFiles/App/PDF/haegeum_en_print.pdf
Korean Confucian Culture Center Website: https://www.ikcc.or.kr/en//0101/content/greeting_en/
Facebook: 한국유교문화진흥원 https://www.facebook.com/ikccofficial
IG: ikcc_official https://www.instagram.com/ikcc_official/
Open 09:00 ~ 18:00
Closed every Monday, every January 1st, New Year's Day, and Chuseok.
Admission: Free
Address: Korea Confucian Culture Center, 35, Jonghak-gil, Noseong-myeon, Nonsan-si, Chungcheongnam-do, 30121
Jetta's pomegranate painting.
Other Places To Visit in Nonsan
Baekje Military Museum
Nonsan Culture and Art Center
Noseonggwollisa Confucian Shrine
Myeongjae Historic House
Donamseowon Confucian Academy
Noseongsanseong Fortress
Gwanchoksa Temple
Gaetaesa Temple
Ssanggyesa Temple
Banyasa Temple
Korea Army Training Center
Sunshine Land
Tapjeongho Lake and Suspension Bridge
Tapjeongho Waterfront E
About the Author
Jetta Allen is the Editor in Chief of United on the RoK. Over the past few years, she has worn many hats; writer, poet, photographer, and editor. She loves nature, travel, and culture, but most of all, making memories with her family. As a military spouse, Jetta knows the importance of community and how being connected can help one find the resources and networks that help them thrive.